Progressive Fork Springs and Top Gun Shock Upgrade

You Tuber and KLR rider Kamil Wojtowicz has posted a very good walk-through video of him installing some Progressive front fork springs and a Top Gun spring on the rear shock of his 2012 KLR650. If you are considering some suspension upgrades to your bike, you will be interested in this video. Click the image above to see Kamil and his bike.

SW-Motech On-Road/Off-Road Foot Pegs

Those stock KLR foot pegs work fine for most riding, but can turn slick in water and mud. Standing on slippery pegs adds an extra challenge to handling the KLR on a rough and rutted trail. I did not need that additional challenge and tried a set of SW-Motech On-Road/Off-Road pegs.

The above picture shows the parts for one side of the bike. The kit comes with: 1- instructions, 2- a hinge adapter, 3- foot peg, 4- a couple of small bags of hardware, 5- a rubber pad that mounts on the foot peg. If you have trouble reading German or English, the pictures will get you through the installation without any problems.

The hinge adapter (left side of picture) attaches to the foot peg with a single bolt and washer. As shown below, the peg side has an upper and lower mounting hole to raise or lower the peg on the bike. If later on, you wish to switch the position, the peg must come off the bike to change it. I used the top hole to lower the peg.

When I installed the mount bolt, I loosely inserted the hinge adapter into the peg and started the bolt. Then, I tightened the bolt with a 13mm wrench which drew the hinge adapter into the foot peg. Don't forget to add threadlocker on that bolt!

Next, the rubber foot pad mounts on the peg with a single bolt and washer. The pad can be removed and re-installed when switching from highway to off road riding, but on a KLR every bolt needs threadlocking compound!

The above picture shows the assembled peg ready to go on the bike. The pegs are interchangeable, but the hinge adapter is left side and right side specific, so watch for that.

In your excitement to install the new pegs on the bike, don't forget to add the hinge spring before inserting the mount pin through the bracket. I used channel-lock pliers to compress the spring and it went in without any difficulty.

The new pegs look good and feel very solid on the bike. I am also happy with their increased width when standing on the pegs. I am confident these pegs are the solution to increasing control of the bike in wet and muddy off road riding conditions. Once I get these pegs wet and muddy, I will let you know how I like them.

Lastly, here is a side-by-side view of the SW-Motechs and the stock pegs. If you are thinking of upgrading your KlR foot pegs, the SW-Motechs are an option you may wish to consider. 

2012 KLR650 Project Bike Part 3

This time around Motorcycle USA gives their 2012 KLR650 project bike a LeoVince X3 Slip-on exhaust for improved engine performance. The stock suspension is also upgraded in both the front and rear with a Progressive Suspension Monotube Fork Kit and 465 Series Shock. These are worthwhile upgrades, but do you need them?

LeoVince X3 Exhaust: The stock KLR has extra horsepower that is smothered by the slightly modified vintage tractor exhaust that Kawasaki installs. One solution comes from LeoVince, an Italian company (pronounced as Leo Vin-chay) that is big in aftermarket exhaust systems. Their X3 exhaust has been around for a couple of years and has a lot of positive feedback. This exhaust frees your KLR's smothered ponies for a 10% performance increase and snappier throttle response. That is not bad when you consider that no bank will give you a 10% return on your money. The LeoVince also weighs four pounds less than the stock "tractor" muffler. Less weight plus more horsepower equals a happy rider. This happiness lists for $286.99 at Motorcycle Superstore. Then put your stock muffler on a tractor where it belongs, or use it for a boat anchor.

Progressive Suspension Monotube Fork Kit and 465 Series Shock: KLR suspension upgrades are always a hot topic since the stock suspension is inadequate for any serious off road adventures. Progressive Suspension has several solutions to this. The monotube fork kit and new shock are higher end upgrades with higher end price tags; almost $1,000. The project bike's handling was greatly improved, as you would expect for that price. My KLR handles well for my needs, so that $1,000 would be better spent on a few road trips!!

These over-the-top upgrades are interesting, but are probably not for most people and that is just fine. I consider these muffler and suspension upgrades as "nice to have" and not "must have" upgrades. Only you can decide if these aftermarkets are right for you and your bike. A lot depends on how your bike performs for the way you ride it, and how much spare change is in your "KLR Ugrade" cookie jar. What really matters is that you get out and ride!

Click here for the MotorcycleUSA.com article 

2012 KLR650 Project Bike Part 2: Parts Guide

Part two of this article from motorcycleusa.com has good reviews of several aftermarket upgrades for their 2012 KLR Project Bike (<link). If you are considering any of these upgrades, the article is well worth reading, but before you start spending, here is my two-cents on these add-ons...

1. Givi 408D Windshield & D408KIT: I have considered getting a taller, touring windshield. But, I am happy with the protection from the shorter stock windshield. On the highway, I have no head buffeting and most bugs shoot over me. Plus, I like the look of the stock windshield. A KLR with the tall "touring" windshield reminds me of the Queen Alien from the movie, Aliens.  That was a pretty good movie, but not so good that I want my bike looking like Sigourney Weaver's out-of-this-world nemesis. 

Alien Queen dressed out for touring.

2. Saddleman Adventure Track Seat: This innovative design resembles two sausages laying where a seat is supposed to go. It is just too "leading edge" for me and I wonder how a passenger fits on this thing?? So, I will keep my $359.95 (for the unheated Saddleman) and my stock seat. While not a fan of the stock KLR saddle, I have worked a comfortable notch into it and it does not look like a bicycle seat. There are many KLR seat options available and many KLRiders work out their own custom seat mods. Do your homework before tossing out your seat!

Image credit: www.motorcycleusa.com

3. SW Motech Centerstand: The KLR needs a center stand, and should have one from Kaswasaki, but...that's another post. I have no complaints about the looks of the SW Motech center stand, but raising and lowering the side stand to use the centerstand sounds cumbersome. When spending $179.99 you would hope for better. Happy Trails has their own center stand and grab bar for slightly less. 

4. Givi TN421 Engine Guards: As I posted earlier, crash protection is a must for the KLR and these less expensive and lighter Givi bars seem a good option if you don't want to spend more for the SW Motech crash bars. The problem may be finding them. Motorcycle Superstore has them for the 2010-11 Versys, but not the KLR. Revilla.com has them for the KLR at $200, plus shipping. For your stock KLR, crash protection should be a top priority.

Image credit: globe-rider.blogspot.com

The price for all of these goodies totals a whopping $889.94 (ouch!). Add shipping and sales tax and you are pretty near to $1,000. Unless you have an unlimited KLR budget, shop around for the best prices and be selective. There are some "must have" and many "nice to have" KLR farkles. Most riders do not need all of them. Before buying, take an honest look at how and where you ride, then upgrade where it works best for you and your bike. You will  have a great bike and gas money left in your pocket.    

KLR 650 SW-Motech Crash Bars Install

The name "crash bars" does not bring good things, but "plastic replacement prevention bars," probably sounds worse. But, protecting the plastic is usually why we install these bars. Besides, in the back of your mind you know that one day soon you will be glad you have them.

Several brands and styles of bars are available for the KLR, but I like SW-Motech bars. They look good, are solid on the bike, and have saved my engine shrouds a couple of times. These bars may seem expensive, until you spend $200 for a replacement Gen 2 engine shroud. Drop the bike twice and the bars have paid for themselves.

Here are some highlights of SW-Motechs going on to a 2012 KLR:

Unprotected riding is risky behavior.

In my experience, every set of SW-Motech bars arrive in a crushed box. Fear not, the bars are covered in bubble wrap and can survive abusive shipping. You receive two of the bars pictured below; one for the left and one for the right, a plastic bag of hardware, and detailed installation instructions written in German. Your inability to read German will not be a problem. There are plenty of pictures and installing the bars is not really rocket science anyway.

Crash bars are just what is needed.

The bars mount at three locations: 
1- the front frame/motor mount (left side of the picture above), 
2- the subframe (upper right hand), and 
3- at the foot pegs (bottom of the picture). 

Study the installation instructions, then sort and familiarize yourself with the hardware before tearing the bike apart. Dump the hardware in a box or bin to keep everything together and sort out what is needed for each mounting location. Now, you are ready to start on the bike.
   
Remove the bike's side panels, seat, and gas tank. Keep in mind that an empty gas tank is easier to handle. Once the bike is stripped down, you are ready to start mounting the bars. I recommend starting with the right side. 

The rubber bushings go here.

The inserts go inside the bushings.

When installing the bars, leave the mounting bolts loose until they are started at all three mounting locations and use thread lock on all of the bolts. I begin with the right side sub-frame mount. This mounting point will hold the bar in place and help in lining up the other two mounts. Be careful and support the bike to prevent the frame from shifting while the sub-frame bolt is out.

A hex bolt replaces the stock bolt on the sub-frame. 

Right side foot peg mount bolts.

After all of the right side bolts are started, move over to the left side and repeat the process: sub-frame, foot peg, and front frame. The front bolts can be difficult since they pass through the right side bar, the frame, and the left side bar. The washers sandwiched between them add to the challenge. This is the only mounting point where both the right and left bars are secured together.

Left side of front mount. The right bar is already on. 

Once both the right and left bars are loosely mounted, go back and tighten everything down. Be careful not to over torque any of these bolts. When all six mount locations are tight, you are ready to reassemble the bike. If you drained the fuel tank, don't forget to add gas before taking off to test your new bars. 

The right side bar installed

 The left side bar installed

Adventure ready on the street or trail.

You can install these bars without a helper. But, someone to hold things and to hand you tools and hardware is a big help. The job is not technically difficult and does not require any special tools. It does require patience to align all of the bar mounts with the bike. Take your time and BE CAREFUL that you do not cross-thread any of the hardware. When you have finished, it is time to ride and enjoy the look and the peace of mind they bring.

KLR650 16t Drive Sprocket Install

Swapping the KLR stock drive gear for a 16t drive sprocket is an easy, and inexpensive upgrade that improves the bike in a couple of areas. The larger gear boosts speed and lowers engine RPM for reduced vibration and a noticeably smoother ride. On the road, it feels like you have an added gear and it really shows when running at highway speed. The down side is a slight loss of torque on the low end. But, most riders agree the benefits far outweigh this slight loss.

This post is a photographic overview of changing this gear on a 2012 KLR. This is not a step-by-step guide and you should follow the manufacturer's instructions for this procedure.

I pencil mark the axle position on the swing arm as a reference for positioning the axle when putting things together again. These marks are only a reference since the larger 16t gear will position the axle slightly ahead of it's original position when the chain is tightened at the end of job.

Above: I have already removed the cover from the stock gear. that's easy. But, removing the nut on the old gear can be difficult. Have someone hold the bike steady with the brakes applied to prevent a tip over while wrenching on this nut. This impact wrench did not work and I finally used a breaker bar with a length of pipe slid over the handle for extra leverage. An 8 sided socket is a good idea to reduce the chance of the socket slipping off of the nut and possibly rounding the corners.

This is the stock 15t gear with the nut and washer removed. The chain is already loosened and the gear is ready to come off. Notice the bright, clean, yellow wires to the left of the gear. Be careful not to damage these wire when removing the gear. 

Have a gear puller handy in case the old gear is stubborn about coming off the shaft. This is also a good time to clean the black, greasy, funk out of this area and inspect those wires for worn or damaged insulation. 

Yes, size matters! The above pic shows the size difference between the 16t gear on the left and the stock 15t gear on the right. That extra tooth will give your KLR a real boost on the highway. 

Wrap the chain over the new gear before sliding it on to the drive shaft and remember to becareful with those wires in front of the gear. I like to wear rubber gloves on these dirty jobs, to keep my hands from looking dirty and greasy over the following few days.

The new gear and new torsion nut are both installed. I recommend you tighten that nut to the specified torque. Also, be sure your torque wrench works properly. Also, notice the chain is a bit closer to those wires now.

Take your time when tightening the chain and ensure the axle is straight. DO NOT trust the factory reference marks engraved on the swing arm. One method is to measure from a fixed point on both sides of the bike to the axle on each side. Both measurements must be equal. When adjusting the chain slack, have someone sitting on the bike. The chain tightens with a rider on the seat. Remember to torque the axle nut on the right-hand side of the bike and install a new cotter pin; then install the cover over the drive sprocket. 

Finally, throw those nasty gloves in the trash and take her for a spin. You may notice a slight loss of "zip" when taking off from a stop sign. But, you will soon forget that when you reach 55-60mph and find you have another gear to shift up. Have fun!

New KLR Thermo-Bob Install and Wiring Issues

Before, doing the Thermo Bob mod, I did my homework and decided it was needed. All engines are designed to operate at a specific temperature and running below that temperature causes additional wear. I wanted my KLR to reach operating temp as quickly as possible so I installed the Thermo Bob.

Thermo-Bob is a thermostat installed in the KLR's upper radiator hose. It connects to a second fitting installed in the lower radiator hose. When the engine is cold, Thermo-Bob routes engine coolant around the radiator allowing the engine to quickly reach operating temperature. When the engine warms up, Thermo-Bob routes coolant to the radiator to prevent overheating.

This cycle repeats to maintain a near constant 185 degree operating temperature at the lower end of the cylinder. Proper operating temperature reduces engine wear and allows for smoother shifting. For more details on Thermo-Bob, visit shop.watt-man.com.  They are great people to work with and I highly recommend them.

Thermo-Bob installed in the upper radiator hose.

Fitting in lower radiator hose

Lower fitting with bypass hose on upper left

Chaffing wire bundle near horn.

The installation was very simple and straight forward using the instructions printed from the internet. This was my first time removing the gas tank and fairings so that probably took longer than installing the Thermo-Bob. While I had everything apart, I took several pictures of the bike stripped "naked", she looked a lot different.

Two mistakes that you will want to avoid when you Thermo-Bob your KLR. First, run the gas tank to almost empty. My tank was half full which made that monster even more awkward during removal and installation. Second, don't forget to reinstall the coolant drain plug before refilling the cooling system. That oversight on my part created a small mess on the garage floor. But, I had kitty litter on hand to clean it up so it was not really a big deal.

It was nearly dark by the time I finished, but I had to take her out for a ride. It was a cool evening, 51 degrees, but the temp needle stayed solidly in the mid range during the test ride. Two improvements that other guys had noticed from this mod was smoother shifting and better acceleration. I noticed both of these right away and was very happy with how the bike performed.

Overall, the Thermo-Bob mod is easy and well worth the time and trouble. I would recommend this to every KLR rider who is interested in longer engine life without burning oil. The smoother shifts and zippy take offs are also nice. Better gas mileage is another expected benefit, but I have not ridden enough yet to know.

The JNS Engineering KLR 650 Skid Plate

I replaced the KLR's plastic skid plate with the  JNS Engineering skid plate because the JNS was specifically designed to fit with my SW Motech crash bars. I ordered online and the box came with everything needed; the plate, instructions, new stainless steel mounting hardware, even a tube of blue Permatex. Sweet.

Everything you need is in the box.

I liked the JNS skid plate right away. It was a heavy duty, quality, part and the black powder coating was another plus. This plate is a bit taller and longer than the stock skid plate and protects a larger area of your engine. The JNS easily bolted up and as advertised, fit perfectly with the SW Motech bars. This armor plate under my engine added something else I had not counted on.

The difference is night and day.

I stood back to admire the bike with the new skid plate, while still holding the old, plastic, plate. I wondered if anyone on eBay would want it. Just then my wife walked by and paused to look at the bike. She said, "The new one makes it look a lot tougher." I asked, "Do you really think so?" She gave the bike a second look and replied, "Definitely."

I tossed the plastic skid plate into the garbage can.

Oil drain plug is easy to access through the plate.

Eagle Mike Reply on Fork Brace

I am a big fan of Eagle Manufacturing and Engineering because of their first-rate customer service. You buy a part from them, have a question or concern, and they take care of you right away. By the way, I am not being paid to say this; just passing some solid information to my KLR brothers and sisters.

After my last post on the fork brace I emailed Eagle on my concerns over dirt entering the fork boot. A couple of hours later I received a reply from Eagle Mike and I am posting it here for everyone:

Lorenzo,
The holes are actually supposed to be open. On the pre-2008 they are open from the factory. The intent is to allow air to enter and leave as the fork compresses and extends. The application on the 2008 and later is a design flaw. Normal maintenance even with the boots is to push them up from time to time and use a small brush to LIGHTLY brush away the dirt. Every six months or so I suggest removing the outer clamp and doing this with the fork brace. Some people only do it as part of the annual maintenance. This depends on how much dirt riding is done. If proper maintenance is done there isn't any increased wear on the fork seals. On the other hand, I've seen seals go away in less than a year on a stock bike ridden a lot in the dirt with no maintenance done in this area. I hope this helps... (also, all fork braces work like this, unless they don't have any attachment for the boots, which is much worse.)
all the best,
Mike

That is a good enough answer for me. Get the Eagle M&E fork brace and you will be glad that you did. 

Eagle Mike Fork Brace

Among KLR riders there are two schools of thought about installing a fork brace. Most Gen 1 riders seem to agree a fork brace will benefit the thinner forks on those early models. The Gen 2 bikes have slightly larger fork tubes so installing a fork brace is less a necessity and more about preference. I decided to install one on my Gen 2 bike.

I ordered the Eagle Mike Fork Brace on-line from Eagle Manufacturing and Engineering, it arrived quickly. Right out of the box, I was very impressed by the quality. It installed in about 10 minutes with a set of metric allen wrenches and was well worth the effort.

The bike had always handled fine around town but was much better on the highway. The brace had eliminated any fork flex and the front wheel felt very solid and stable as all speeds. Unless you have ridden with a fork brace installed, you don't know how much the stock KLR's handling can be improved. I recommend this upgrade to all other KLR riders.

As with many things in life, solving one problem often creates another problem, and it is the same with the fork brace.

To mount the brace, the lower end of the fork boots must be moved up from the stock position. With the brace mounted, the boots slide down and fit over the fork brace. That's easy enough, but the vent holes at the bottom of both boots are exposed. This will allow dirt and sand into the forks where they will eat away at the fork seals.

The bottom line here is; the fork brace is a great upgrade, but the devil is in the details and something needs to be done about protecting the fork seals from foreign contaminates.

Click the image above to read the follow-up from Eagle Mike regarding this post.

Thermo-Bob Install