Getting ready for spring riding, I threw together this quick how-to on removing and cleaning a dirty air filter. The side panels are already off here, but I am sure you can get them off without any trouble.
Riding the Kawasaki KLR 650 on and off road.
Showing posts with label How to. Show all posts
Showing posts with label How to. Show all posts
Changing the Brake Pads
Changing your KLR's brake pads is a straight forward job. No great mechanical skills or special tools beyond a socket set and a metric allen wrench set are needed. This is an overview of the job, and you should consult a service manual when servicing your brakes.
Begin on the front and remove the brake hose support to allow added room to work when the caliper is removed. Next, use a 5mm allen wrench to loosen but do not remove the hex keyed alignment pins on the caliper. These can be tight and are easier to break free with the brake caliper still mounted on the fork. Use a 12mm socket to remove the two caliper mounting bolts. Also, have a length of rope or bungee handy to support the caliper once it is removed from the fork. Do not let the caliper dangle by the brake hose.
Now, the alignment pins that hold the pads in the caliper are ready to come out. Use the allen wrench to finish unscrewing them. If they are stubborn about coming out, use a suitable tool to push them out from the back side. When both pins are removed, the inside pad rotates out and the outside pad can be easily removed. That is all for taking things apart, the job is half done.
These pictures above clearly contrast the wear on the old and new pads for the front brake.
Before installing the new pads, be sure to push the two brake pistons back into the cylinder bores. This makes room for the thicker new pads to fit over the rotor when the caliper goes back on. The pistons can be moved by hand, but if they are stubborn use a C clamp to gently push them back into the caliper. Insert the first pad against the pistons then partially insert both alignment pins through the caliper and the new pad. Give these pins (below) a quick cleaning and inspection before inserting them.
There is a spring beneath the both pads so apply slight downward pressure to align the pads with the pins. With the pins through the first pad, position the remaining pad and insert the pin through it and completely into the caliper. A couple turns on the pin will hold it in place for now.
Next, position the caliper on the fork and reinstall the mount bolts. Be sure to use thread locking compound on the threads and torque them down. Apply locking compound on the exposed threads of the alignments pins and torque them down. Finally, reinstall the brake hose guide and remove the support rope from the caliper.
The rear brake pads removal and installation are identical to the front and you can follow the same process when changing them. You can see below, my rear pads had a bit less wear than the front.
Before riding the bike, be sure to pump both brakes several times to build pressure in the system. Also, check the fluid level for both the front and rear cylinders. Finally, record the mileage for a record of when the new pads were installed. If everything went well, you should be done in about an hour.
Begin on the front and remove the brake hose support to allow added room to work when the caliper is removed. Next, use a 5mm allen wrench to loosen but do not remove the hex keyed alignment pins on the caliper. These can be tight and are easier to break free with the brake caliper still mounted on the fork. Use a 12mm socket to remove the two caliper mounting bolts. Also, have a length of rope or bungee handy to support the caliper once it is removed from the fork. Do not let the caliper dangle by the brake hose.
Now, the alignment pins that hold the pads in the caliper are ready to come out. Use the allen wrench to finish unscrewing them. If they are stubborn about coming out, use a suitable tool to push them out from the back side. When both pins are removed, the inside pad rotates out and the outside pad can be easily removed. That is all for taking things apart, the job is half done.
These pictures above clearly contrast the wear on the old and new pads for the front brake.
Before installing the new pads, be sure to push the two brake pistons back into the cylinder bores. This makes room for the thicker new pads to fit over the rotor when the caliper goes back on. The pistons can be moved by hand, but if they are stubborn use a C clamp to gently push them back into the caliper. Insert the first pad against the pistons then partially insert both alignment pins through the caliper and the new pad. Give these pins (below) a quick cleaning and inspection before inserting them.
There is a spring beneath the both pads so apply slight downward pressure to align the pads with the pins. With the pins through the first pad, position the remaining pad and insert the pin through it and completely into the caliper. A couple turns on the pin will hold it in place for now.
Next, position the caliper on the fork and reinstall the mount bolts. Be sure to use thread locking compound on the threads and torque them down. Apply locking compound on the exposed threads of the alignments pins and torque them down. Finally, reinstall the brake hose guide and remove the support rope from the caliper.
The rear brake pads removal and installation are identical to the front and you can follow the same process when changing them. You can see below, my rear pads had a bit less wear than the front.
Before riding the bike, be sure to pump both brakes several times to build pressure in the system. Also, check the fluid level for both the front and rear cylinders. Finally, record the mileage for a record of when the new pads were installed. If everything went well, you should be done in about an hour.
Progressive Fork Springs and Top Gun Shock Upgrade
You Tuber and KLR rider Kamil Wojtowicz has posted a very good walk-through video of him installing some Progressive front fork springs and a Top Gun spring on the rear shock of his 2012 KLR650. If you are considering some suspension upgrades to your bike, you will be interested in this video. Click the image above to see Kamil and his bike.
SW-Motech On-Road/Off-Road Foot Pegs
Those stock KLR foot pegs work fine for most riding, but can turn slick in water and mud. Standing on slippery pegs adds an extra challenge to handling the KLR on a rough and rutted trail. I did not need that additional challenge and tried a set of SW-Motech On-Road/Off-Road pegs.
The above picture shows the parts for one side of the bike. The kit comes with: 1- instructions, 2- a hinge adapter, 3- foot peg, 4- a couple of small bags of hardware, 5- a rubber pad that mounts on the foot peg. If you have trouble reading German or English, the pictures will get you through the installation without any problems.
The hinge adapter (left side of picture) attaches to the foot peg with a single bolt and washer. As shown below, the peg side has an upper and lower mounting hole to raise or lower the peg on the bike. If later on, you wish to switch the position, the peg must come off the bike to change it. I used the top hole to lower the peg.
When I installed the mount bolt, I loosely inserted the hinge adapter into the peg and started the bolt. Then, I tightened the bolt with a 13mm wrench which drew the hinge adapter into the foot peg. Don't forget to add threadlocker on that bolt!
The above picture shows the parts for one side of the bike. The kit comes with: 1- instructions, 2- a hinge adapter, 3- foot peg, 4- a couple of small bags of hardware, 5- a rubber pad that mounts on the foot peg. If you have trouble reading German or English, the pictures will get you through the installation without any problems.
When I installed the mount bolt, I loosely inserted the hinge adapter into the peg and started the bolt. Then, I tightened the bolt with a 13mm wrench which drew the hinge adapter into the foot peg. Don't forget to add threadlocker on that bolt!
Next, the rubber foot pad mounts on the peg with a single bolt and washer. The pad can be removed and re-installed when switching from highway to off road riding, but on a KLR every bolt needs threadlocking compound!
The above picture shows the assembled peg ready to go on the bike. The pegs are interchangeable, but the hinge adapter is left side and right side specific, so watch for that.
In your excitement to install the new pegs on the bike, don't forget to add the hinge spring before inserting the mount pin through the bracket. I used channel-lock pliers to compress the spring and it went in without any difficulty.
The new pegs look good and feel very solid on the bike. I am also happy with their increased width when standing on the pegs. I am confident these pegs are the solution to increasing control of the bike in wet and muddy off road riding conditions. Once I get these pegs wet and muddy, I will let you know how I like them.
Lastly, here is a side-by-side view of the SW-Motechs and the stock pegs. If you are thinking of upgrading your KlR foot pegs, the SW-Motechs are an option you may wish to consider.
Seat Concepts KLR650 Seat Upgrade
I upgraded my stock KLR seat with a kit from Seat Concepts. The kit comes with everything you will need including wider seat pad foam, a new seat cover, and a page of instructions. You will need to use the seat pan from your current seat. It was a fast and easy job and I am very happy with the result.
My KLR's seat was already removed for winter so the first step was to remove the stock seat cover. A small flat tip screwdriver worked fine to lift up the staples so I could remove them with pliers. The 72 staples came out very easily.
With the stock seat cover off, I separated the stock seat foam from the pan. To prep the seat pan for the new foam, I removed the old glue residue and cleaned the seat pan. This is all pretty simple and straightforward.
So far, I had followed the instructions, but for gluing the new foam onto the seat pan, I went rogue. The instructions call for an aerosol contact adhesive. I had that on hand, but would not spray it in my basement. The outside temp was somewhere south of zero degrees, so taking it outside was not an option. Instead, I grabbed the liquid Gorilla Glue from the shelf since foam is one of its applications. I applied glue to the seat pan, attached the new foam and set it aside. A couple of days later, the Gorilla Glue had worked just fine.
To install the new seat cover, I lacked the proper tools and any experience, which gave me little confidence that could get it done. Rather than attempt it myself, I called a local upholstery shop who said they could do the job. I dropped off the seat and cover, then picked it up two days later. The new seat cover was everything I had hoped for and looked awesome.
My KLR's seat was already removed for winter so the first step was to remove the stock seat cover. A small flat tip screwdriver worked fine to lift up the staples so I could remove them with pliers. The 72 staples came out very easily.
With the stock seat cover off, I separated the stock seat foam from the pan. To prep the seat pan for the new foam, I removed the old glue residue and cleaned the seat pan. This is all pretty simple and straightforward.
So far, I had followed the instructions, but for gluing the new foam onto the seat pan, I went rogue. The instructions call for an aerosol contact adhesive. I had that on hand, but would not spray it in my basement. The outside temp was somewhere south of zero degrees, so taking it outside was not an option. Instead, I grabbed the liquid Gorilla Glue from the shelf since foam is one of its applications. I applied glue to the seat pan, attached the new foam and set it aside. A couple of days later, the Gorilla Glue had worked just fine.
To install the new seat cover, I lacked the proper tools and any experience, which gave me little confidence that could get it done. Rather than attempt it myself, I called a local upholstery shop who said they could do the job. I dropped off the seat and cover, then picked it up two days later. The new seat cover was everything I had hoped for and looked awesome.
Of course I really wanted to see the new seat on the KLR, but instead I put it safely away on a basement shelf to wait for spring. For now, I am happy with the look of the new seat and time will tell if my butt is equally as happy. I expect good things!
6 Simple Tips for GoPro Ride Videos
Watch a few motorcycle ride videos on You Tube and before long, you will be browsing the portable video cameras at Best Buy. You will soon discover that GoPro has a great store display with exciting clips of people kyaking, skiing, and skydiving. Five minutes in front of that display will convince you that owning a GoPro is your ticket to becoming the Internet's next viral video star.
That GoPro display was my inspiration for buying the camera and a sack of those plastic mounting things. I was not interested in You Tube stardom, but I was excited about posting some cool clips of my rides. I didn't know that I still needed to learn a few aggravating lessons about using the GoPro.
From my experience as a GoPro noob, I am passing along these 6 simple pointers that are not mentioned by the store display. Keep them in mind when using your GoPro and you will soon be posting awesome ride videos online.
Before heading out with your GoPro make sure:
- The battery is fully charged - The battery life indicator is impossible to read with the camera mounted on your helmet and nothing is worse than finishing a ride to find your battery died five minutes after you started.
- The SD card is inserted - Check this before you leave home since the camera will not work without the SD card. I keep a couple extra SD cards in my tail bag, just to be safe.
- The SD card is big enough and empty - The more GB on the card, the more it can record. But if your big card is half full from last week's ride, you will only get few minutes (or seconds) of today's ride. The camera can record in several different resolutions, but higher resolution fills the SD card faster. That's ok if you have those extra SD cards in the tail or tank bag.
- The camera is angled correctly - Not too high and not too low. The fish-eye lens is pretty forgiving on the camera angle. But, I dumped once while wearing the helmet cam and the impact pivoted the camera down. The rest of that video was not-so-exciting footage of the top of the gas tank.
- Turn it on before you start - Simple enough, but easy to forget when you are with friends and everyone is excited to start down an unexplored trail. After the ride when someone asks if you recorded everything, it's a bad feeling to look in the side mirror and see the camera was off the entire time!.
- Turn it off and on again while riding - This breaks up the recorded video into smaller files that are much faster to download into the computer and easier to work with in your video editing software.
- Wipe the lens - Be sure you run your glove across the lens when riding and clean it when you stop. Otherwise, bugs, dirt, dust, and mud can cover the lens and ruin your epic ride video.
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| Wild horses! Wait - is the camera on?? |
Bitter experience from some great opportunities that I missed has improved my GoPo skills and I am better now than when I began. But, learn from my mistakes and perhaps you will find the viral video stardom that has eluded me - probably because I forgot to turn on the camera again.
5 Tips for Buying A Used Motorcycle
Summer is winding down and more used motorcycles are turning up "For Sale" in neighborhood yards, parking lots and newspaper ads. It's a prime time to find a great deal on a good used bike. But, before you lay down your hard earned money for the "gently used" bike of your dreams, here are a few things to remember when considering a used bike:
1. Overall condition: This can tell a lot about how well the motorcycle was treated. Faded paint, a cracked or torn seat, bent clutch or brake levers, dented gas tank, and broken mirrors are a few signs the bike had a hard life with little care. Look carefully, an owner who ignores his bike's appearance, most likely ignored the oil level, valves, filters, chain, sprockets, and other important items.
2. Lots of new parts: This may indicate the bike was hurriedly fix up to sell. New grips, seat, mirrors, brake or clutch lever, oddly placed new decals, or fresh paint are a few clues. When you see these, inspect the bike carefully and be suspicious about what lies beneath that shiny exterior. Always ask why the bike is for sale.
3. Safety items: Be sure the headlight (high and low beam), tail light, all turn signals, and the horn work. These are essential safety items that should be checked before every ride. If any of these do not work, the bike has been neglected and will need some work before you ride it.
4. Leaks: Check under the bike for oil, coolant, or other fluid leaks. Rust in the area below the battery often occurs when the bike was dumped and acid leaked from the battery. A dark line below the cylinder head indicates oil seepage from the head gasket. Brake fluid leaks are bad news, ensure the brakes are working before you test ride any bike. Any leak will mean additional repair costs for you.
5. Brakes: For disc brakes, inspect the discs and pads for thickness, wear, and damage. Drum brakes have an adjustment lever that indicate the level of brake wear. Before a test ride, ensure the front and rear brakes are working properly. I said that earlier, but it bears repeating!
6. Tires: Look for cracks, cuts, or splits in the tread and sidewall area. Also, check the tire pressure before riding a strange bike. Low tire pressure causes handling problems. Running one new tire with a worn tire may cause handling issues. Many tire manufacturers warn against running mismatched tires. In spite of this, you see it a lot.
7. Starting and running: Touch the engine before starting the bike. If the bike is already warmed up, remember that it may start and run very differently when it is cold in your garage. The bike should start easily and idle smoothly. Hard starting or uneven (surging) idle may have many causes. If you are not a DIY individual, you will spend additional money (sometimes a lot) on repairs.
8. Ask questions: Do not be afraid to ask about the bike's riding and maintenance history. Are there records of oil changes? Does it burn oil? How old is the battery? Have the valves been adjusted? Does it have a clean title? If you are buying a KLR, was the doo-hickey changed? Has the bike been modified in any way? If the seller's answers seem evasive, be careful. An honest seller will gladly show receipts for any major work done on the bike. But, many times, you will simply have to trust the seller. In that case, follow your instincts and if you have any doubts, walk away.
Ok, there 8 tips here, but there is no charge for the extra 3 tips! There are just a lot to consider when looking at a used bike. People often buy bikes and sell them a short time later for reasons that have nothing to do with the bike being a lemon. Their loss can be your gain, but be careful and know what you are looking for on a used bike. Finally, remember to never want anything too much or you will pay too much for it!!
1. Overall condition: This can tell a lot about how well the motorcycle was treated. Faded paint, a cracked or torn seat, bent clutch or brake levers, dented gas tank, and broken mirrors are a few signs the bike had a hard life with little care. Look carefully, an owner who ignores his bike's appearance, most likely ignored the oil level, valves, filters, chain, sprockets, and other important items.
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| There's are hot deal - or is it?? |
3. Safety items: Be sure the headlight (high and low beam), tail light, all turn signals, and the horn work. These are essential safety items that should be checked before every ride. If any of these do not work, the bike has been neglected and will need some work before you ride it.
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| Be sure the instruments and indicators work. |
5. Brakes: For disc brakes, inspect the discs and pads for thickness, wear, and damage. Drum brakes have an adjustment lever that indicate the level of brake wear. Before a test ride, ensure the front and rear brakes are working properly. I said that earlier, but it bears repeating!
6. Tires: Look for cracks, cuts, or splits in the tread and sidewall area. Also, check the tire pressure before riding a strange bike. Low tire pressure causes handling problems. Running one new tire with a worn tire may cause handling issues. Many tire manufacturers warn against running mismatched tires. In spite of this, you see it a lot.
7. Starting and running: Touch the engine before starting the bike. If the bike is already warmed up, remember that it may start and run very differently when it is cold in your garage. The bike should start easily and idle smoothly. Hard starting or uneven (surging) idle may have many causes. If you are not a DIY individual, you will spend additional money (sometimes a lot) on repairs.
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| Scratches on the engine may mean this bike has been down. |
Ok, there 8 tips here, but there is no charge for the extra 3 tips! There are just a lot to consider when looking at a used bike. People often buy bikes and sell them a short time later for reasons that have nothing to do with the bike being a lemon. Their loss can be your gain, but be careful and know what you are looking for on a used bike. Finally, remember to never want anything too much or you will pay too much for it!!
Off Road Riding Tips
This is a great article about correct techniques for off road riding. Recommended for all new dual sport riders and a good review for those with some experience. If you are new to riding off road, start with easy trails at low speed. Practice the skills discussed in this article and you will soon be ready for more challenging rides. Click here for the article.
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| Photo credit: www.motorcyclistonline.com |
KLR 650 SW-Motech Crash Bars Install
Several brands and styles of bars are available for the KLR, but I like SW-Motech bars. They look good, are solid on the bike, and have saved my engine shrouds a couple of times. These bars may seem expensive, until you spend $200 for a replacement Gen 2 engine shroud. Drop the bike twice and the bars have paid for themselves.
Here are some highlights of SW-Motechs going on to a 2012 KLR:
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| Unprotected riding is risky behavior. |
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| Crash bars are just what is needed. |
1- the front frame/motor mount (left side of the picture above),
2- the subframe (upper right hand), and
3- at the foot pegs (bottom of the picture).
Study the installation instructions, then sort and familiarize yourself with the hardware before tearing the bike apart. Dump the hardware in a box or bin to keep everything together and sort out what is needed for each mounting location. Now, you are ready to start on the bike.
Remove the bike's side panels, seat, and gas tank. Keep in mind that an empty gas tank is easier to handle. Once the bike is stripped down, you are ready to start mounting the bars. I recommend starting with the right side.
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| The rubber bushings go here. |
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| The inserts go inside the bushings. |
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| A hex bolt replaces the stock bolt on the sub-frame. |
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| Right side foot peg mount bolts. |
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| Left side of front mount. The right bar is already on. |
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| The right side bar installed |
The left side bar installed
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| Adventure ready on the street or trail. |
KLR650 16t Drive Sprocket Install
Swapping the KLR stock drive gear for a 16t drive sprocket is an easy, and inexpensive upgrade that improves the bike in a couple of areas. The larger gear boosts speed and lowers engine RPM for reduced vibration and a noticeably smoother ride. On the road, it feels like you have an added gear and it really shows when running at highway speed. The down side is a slight loss of torque on the low end. But, most riders agree the benefits far outweigh this slight loss.
This post is a photographic overview of changing this gear on a 2012 KLR. This is not a step-by-step guide and you should follow the manufacturer's instructions for this procedure.
I pencil mark the axle position on the swing arm as a reference for positioning the axle when putting things together again. These marks are only a reference since the larger 16t gear will position the axle slightly ahead of it's original position when the chain is tightened at the end of job.
Wrap the chain over the new gear before sliding it on to the drive shaft and remember to becareful with those wires in front of the gear. I like to wear rubber gloves on these dirty jobs, to keep my hands from looking dirty and greasy over the following few days.
The new gear and new torsion nut are both installed. I recommend you tighten that nut to the specified torque. Also, be sure your torque wrench works properly. Also, notice the chain is a bit closer to those wires now.
This post is a photographic overview of changing this gear on a 2012 KLR. This is not a step-by-step guide and you should follow the manufacturer's instructions for this procedure.
I pencil mark the axle position on the swing arm as a reference for positioning the axle when putting things together again. These marks are only a reference since the larger 16t gear will position the axle slightly ahead of it's original position when the chain is tightened at the end of job.
Above: I have already removed the cover from the stock gear. that's easy. But, removing the nut on the old gear can be difficult. Have someone hold the bike steady with the brakes applied to prevent a tip over while wrenching on this nut. This impact wrench did not work and I finally used a breaker bar with a length of pipe slid over the handle for extra leverage. An 8 sided socket is a good idea to reduce the chance of the socket slipping off of the nut and possibly rounding the corners.
This is the stock 15t gear with the nut and washer removed. The chain is already loosened and the gear is ready to come off. Notice the bright, clean, yellow wires to the left of the gear. Be careful not to damage these wire when removing the gear.
Have a gear puller handy in case the old gear is stubborn about coming off the shaft. This is also a good time to clean the black, greasy, funk out of this area and inspect those wires for worn or damaged insulation.
Yes, size matters! The above pic shows the size difference between the 16t gear on the left and the stock 15t gear on the right. That extra tooth will give your KLR a real boost on the highway.
Take your time when tightening the chain and ensure the axle is straight. DO NOT trust the factory reference marks engraved on the swing arm. One method is to measure from a fixed point on both sides of the bike to the axle on each side. Both measurements must be equal. When adjusting the chain slack, have someone sitting on the bike. The chain tightens with a rider on the seat. Remember to torque the axle nut on the right-hand side of the bike and install a new cotter pin; then install the cover over the drive sprocket.
Finally, throw those nasty gloves in the trash and take her for a spin. You may notice a slight loss of "zip" when taking off from a stop sign. But, you will soon forget that when you reach 55-60mph and find you have another gear to shift up. Have fun!
New KLR Thermo-Bob Install and Wiring Issues
Before, doing the Thermo Bob mod, I did my homework and decided it was needed. All engines are designed to operate at a specific temperature and running below that temperature causes additional wear. I wanted my KLR to reach operating temp as quickly as possible so I installed the Thermo Bob.
Thermo-Bob is a thermostat installed in the KLR's upper radiator hose. It connects to a second fitting installed in the lower radiator hose. When the engine is cold, Thermo-Bob routes engine coolant around the radiator allowing the engine to quickly reach operating temperature. When the engine warms up, Thermo-Bob routes coolant to the radiator to prevent overheating.
This cycle repeats to maintain a near constant 185 degree operating temperature at the lower end of the cylinder. Proper operating temperature reduces engine wear and allows for smoother shifting. For more details on Thermo-Bob, visit shop.watt-man.com. They are great people to work with and I highly recommend them.
The installation was very simple and straight forward using the instructions printed from the internet. This was my first time removing the gas tank and fairings so that probably took longer than installing the Thermo-Bob. While I had everything apart, I took several pictures of the bike stripped "naked", she looked a lot different.
Two mistakes that you will want to avoid when you Thermo-Bob your KLR. First, run the gas tank to almost empty. My tank was half full which made that monster even more awkward during removal and installation. Second, don't forget to reinstall the coolant drain plug before refilling the cooling system. That oversight on my part created a small mess on the garage floor. But, I had kitty litter on hand to clean it up so it was not really a big deal.
It was nearly dark by the time I finished, but I had to take her out for a ride. It was a cool evening, 51 degrees, but the temp needle stayed solidly in the mid range during the test ride. Two improvements that other guys had noticed from this mod was smoother shifting and better acceleration. I noticed both of these right away and was very happy with how the bike performed.
Overall, the Thermo-Bob mod is easy and well worth the time and trouble. I would recommend this to every KLR rider who is interested in longer engine life without burning oil. The smoother shifts and zippy take offs are also nice. Better gas mileage is another expected benefit, but I have not ridden enough yet to know.
Thermo-Bob is a thermostat installed in the KLR's upper radiator hose. It connects to a second fitting installed in the lower radiator hose. When the engine is cold, Thermo-Bob routes engine coolant around the radiator allowing the engine to quickly reach operating temperature. When the engine warms up, Thermo-Bob routes coolant to the radiator to prevent overheating.
This cycle repeats to maintain a near constant 185 degree operating temperature at the lower end of the cylinder. Proper operating temperature reduces engine wear and allows for smoother shifting. For more details on Thermo-Bob, visit shop.watt-man.com. They are great people to work with and I highly recommend them.
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| Thermo-Bob installed in the upper radiator hose. |
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| Fitting in lower radiator hose |
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| Lower fitting with bypass hose on upper left |
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| Chaffing wire bundle near horn. |
The installation was very simple and straight forward using the instructions printed from the internet. This was my first time removing the gas tank and fairings so that probably took longer than installing the Thermo-Bob. While I had everything apart, I took several pictures of the bike stripped "naked", she looked a lot different.
Two mistakes that you will want to avoid when you Thermo-Bob your KLR. First, run the gas tank to almost empty. My tank was half full which made that monster even more awkward during removal and installation. Second, don't forget to reinstall the coolant drain plug before refilling the cooling system. That oversight on my part created a small mess on the garage floor. But, I had kitty litter on hand to clean it up so it was not really a big deal.
It was nearly dark by the time I finished, but I had to take her out for a ride. It was a cool evening, 51 degrees, but the temp needle stayed solidly in the mid range during the test ride. Two improvements that other guys had noticed from this mod was smoother shifting and better acceleration. I noticed both of these right away and was very happy with how the bike performed.
Overall, the Thermo-Bob mod is easy and well worth the time and trouble. I would recommend this to every KLR rider who is interested in longer engine life without burning oil. The smoother shifts and zippy take offs are also nice. Better gas mileage is another expected benefit, but I have not ridden enough yet to know.
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